6440, template

6440: Ciggies

originally published11/27/11

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How do you take 6 photos and all of them bad?  Well  one way is to move just before the shutter snaps. Another is a ridiculous pose. Third poor posture. Fourth, oh why go on.  Point is I will be reviewing the fit, the pattern AND I will point out why the review is right and the photo wrong.

 

I just simply cropped my head out of this photo.  You can’t tell much about the pants from my pose anyway but I wanted to bring attention to the hem and it’s circumference.  I measured: the completed circumference is 16″.  My pattern was multi-sized 14 through 20 with an advertised hem circumference of 12 to 15.5 inches.  I cut a size 18. That alone should have made the circumferences less than 15.5 inches. Each size added about 1/2 inch to the width of each pattern piece.  I would be expecting about 14.5″ or less even if I had not further taken in the seams.  Having removed over 1″ from each of the side seams, my finished pant is somewhere between the size 14 and 16 and the circumference is still larger than advertised? I’m really disappointed in this inaccuracy.  I do not have ciggies or skinnies (as the industry wants to currently call this style.)  Although my pants are slimmer than my 143’s.   I believe my 143’s and Jalie Jeans (once I slimmed them) ended up with a 18″ hem circumference.  My TJ906’s are about 20″.

 

I will take these pants in on the sides from hip to hem but just a little. I think many of the wrinkles are due to the pants having too much ease especially for this fabric. The waist is still just a bit too tight.  I let out each side 1/8″.  With 2 seams and 4 sides that means I added 1/2″ ease at the waist.  I’m going to cope with this for now because my weight has also gone up about 4 pounds.  4 pounds of hamburger especially at the waist will affect the fit greatly.  I also note that this fabric is a bit soft and suffering with some static cling.  It’s a seasonal disorder for my clothes.  I must remember to spray these pants when removing them from the dryer.  I also thought the pants were too short. Hemming was accomplished by serging 1″ bias tape to the edge and turning up only about 3/8″ of the pant fabric. I prefer my pants a little longer which means that they do generally have a few horizontal wrinkles in the lower leg caused by the pant “stacking” on my boots.  This becomes very evident when the static cling factor is added. Despite that, I’ve added 1.25″ to the pattern legs for the next version.

 

I’ve not adjusted the pattern at the waist.  I traced a size 14 front and 16 back for the next version.  I experimented with the concept of dual-sizing on my last pair of 143’s.  I was extremely surprised at how well that worked.  It’s too bad that I didn’t have the confidence to duplicate that experiment with this pair.

 

 

 

I’m content to discard the wrinkles below the knee as being the result of static cling, stacking and perhaps still too much ease for the soft fabric.  It is the diagonal wrinkles beginning to form on the back thigh that concern me.  I note that they are forming only on the inseam piece and only on the back side. Again, I know that I have a soft fabric, too much ease and static cling but the wrinkles are less than the first fitting. In the first fitting the wrinkles extended all across the back, the sides and slightly into the front. I did think that the wide, thick heavy seams were contributing.  The seams have all now been serged to 3/8″ wide. Curiously in the back view that I’m not showing (and the belted view), the wrinkles all but disappear.  It’s very odd, the waist feels too tight. There are wrinkles and bulges indicating that the waist is too tight especially in the front.  But when I belt the pants and pull the the waist up in the back most of the wrinkles disappear from the lower back leg or thigh area.  I might actually need some scooping which surprises me to no end.  One of the good things about knits it that they  should stretch around my rear instead of being pushed downward.  Sorry only someone with a rear like mine could understand that statement.

 

BTW, these pic’s were from the final fitting. I will make a few changes but I don’t plan to photo or review the completed garment. As mentioned, I’ve already traced the 14 front 16 back and added 1.25″ hem allowance.  I’ll finish these and wear them but it’s the next pair I feel excited about.  I’ve already chosen a similar fabric. Both this and the next fabric fall into the category of medium-to-heavy weight knits.  Both are a cotton/poly blend that was popular years ago for pants.  These are casual-dress fabrics.  Good for general office work, date night, or lounging around the house.  I wouldn’t herd cattle or show up for executive meetings wearing them but they will be fine for 99% of my life. As always there is more to come.

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