6440, template

2011 Winter 6 PAC Trousers (Garment 1) Done…

originally published12/5/11

.

maybe

This fabric is surprising.  I chose it for it’s color, beefy weight and knit type fabric.  It is a cotton-poly double knit.

 

It is comfortable but in retrospect, I wish I’d chose a Yoga Pant pattern instead of the more fitted McCall’s 6440.  I planned to fit it more closely…

 

…. until I realized that the fabric was clinging despite having a beefy hand.

 

Fortunately, most of the issues (pantie line, belly bulge) will be covered up because I always wear tops untucked.

 

I wrote almost done, because I really need to lift these wrinkles out of there.  I’m not entirely sure of their cause so I won’t be altering the pattern.  The back-thigh wrinkles are an issue I have frequently and with most pant patterns.  My “wearable” muslin pair, hinted at the issue forming.  I made a drastic change since the muslin. The muslin was cut 18 width and 14 length.  I’m short but a little on the wide side. I over estimated my width and spent lots of time removing 4 inches of ease.  On this pair I cut a 14 length and a 14 width for the front.  I cut the back a 16 width.  Initially I was concerned that I would need a 16 length in the back, at least where the pant joins the waistband.  The alteration for a big butt is similar to the full bust adjustment (FBA).  You have a larger ball and need more width plus length to cover the bigger ball (or balls in my case).  I opted to keep the 14 length for this pair because I was using a knit.

 

I have to say, I do like this pattern.  I believe it is designed for knits, but could easily work with many wovens.  Despite McCall’s advertisement, I do not think it is a skinny pant.  I’ve usually cut a 14 and use 3/8 seam allowances.  I had to use a 5/8″ seam allowance and I think there is still too much ease.

 

ETA on my next pair I will cut a size 14 everywhere except the back crotch.  I think the 16 crotch is right for me and that will be the next configuration that I try.  Got to get the rest of the Winter 6PAC done first.

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