One-Pattern-Piece Pants

originally published9/26/11


Louise Cutting is helping me fit the OneSeams over at the Stitchers Guild forum page 19. She’s very busy and I haven’t heard from her since yesterday morning.  That’s not a big deal. But, patience was never one of my virtues.  It appeared to me that she was walking me though the fitting instructions (included in the pattern) and she was doing the math for me.  Well I’m perfectly capable of doing the math myself.  I had skipped the math mostly out of curiousity to see how her one-pattern-piece pant would fit out-of the-envelope as compared to others that I’ve used.  I was concerned mostly about the side grain line leaning forward, some tightness across the rear with some looseness in the front.  I really thought the fit process was going pretty good and was slightly surpirsed when she looked at my pictures and said:


[quote author=LOUISE CUTTING link=topic=535.msg243560#msg243560 date=1317062539]

… I needed to step in and help.

…. lets start from the beginning…. [/quote]


One of the reasons I prefer to work with everyday sewists at SG instead of experts in their classes is that the everyday sewists will look at what you’ve got and offer opinions as to where to go from here.  The expert always wants you to throw the baby out with the bath water and make a new baby with them. But in this case I wasn’t entirely satisfied with the fit and not entirely sure what to do next. Yet it wasn’t a bad fit. Once styled with proper shoes and a nice top, that first muslin could have been completed and worn; and I would have been better dressed than 99% of the people in the bank line.  BUT, I really do want to improve my fitting process.  I really do want to be able to easily and quickly fit pants.  So if the only way to work with the experts is on their terms,then that’s what I’ll do.


So I read Louise’s instructions and follow them.  We had to stop for the night for me. Even the retired have obligations and responsibilities. Louise asked one question early the next morning about the elastic on hand and stated she had a lot to do.  My lack of patience has done me in.  Unable to control myself, I started reading the fit instructions.  Realized we had only 1 step left, adjusting the pant leg length.  I’m as capable of doing the math as anyone else and so I did.  I had my hem to waist measurement, subtracted 1/2″ because I’m using View B(tapered) and then compared the result to the Finished Length column of the provided chart.  My result was 2″ less than the chart’s finished measurement, so I tucked 1″ of the leg length  and then laid out my fabric and cut.


The instructions say just to serge finish the hem edge and the waistband edge. I anticpated a lot of handling (muslins usually require more handling) so I sergered all the edges.  I then basted everything, inseams, side seams, hem and waistband. I cut the elastic 27″ long, because that’s what I usually use. I can easily adjust that if needed.


I tried them on and carefully smoothed the pant into position.  I’m wearing flats in the  picture because that’s what I usually wear and that’s how I measured my hem to waist.

I’m much more satisfied with this front view.  However, I think the front crotch is far too long.  It rises up above my waistline while standing.  When sitting, I have this huge bubble of fabric.   I don’t like the fluted edgeing of the waistband. I don’t like it because my body bends it over creating a lump in the front.  But that’s what the paterrn instructions call for and I was trying to follow instructions exactly. I would still prefer a slimmer leg on the front view.


I do like the side viw.  The grainline is fairly perpendicular to the floor.  I could spend a little more time arranging the ease on the waist band. It might take care of those forward drag lines. But this is a pull on pant and there will be ease some place along the waistband.

The back has a couple of issues.  Is still feel there is too much ease in the legs, maybe I would have been better off to start with the latest version of the pattern instead of the,,, er classic. These are still too tight across the rear. While it may be hard to tell in this pic, the back crotch is pulling down wards.  When I sit, it really pulls downwards — like Plumber’s Bu!!.

I read these instructions through twice:

[quote author=LOUISE CUTTING link=topic=535.msg243598#msg243598 date=1317074520]

…You are not done yet….your waist goes up in the front and down in the back so should your pants…but you never change this at the waistline of the pants.



Draw another line about 1″ above from where you did the 3/4″ hipline fold. Slip a strip of paper long enough to reach from the CF to CB under this line. Cut along this line from [u]CF to the grain line[/u]…not through it and then cut from [u]CB to the grain line[/u]…there should be about a 1/8″ hinge at the grainline on this line. Now open the front up creating a very long narrow pie shape. Open up the vertical front CF line about 1/4″…you will see the back will now overlap the same amount. This does not change the crotch measurement, just where the fabric need to be when worn. Tape everyting together



Every pair of pants I’ve made or purchased has need a shorter front crotch and a longer back crotch. Her adjustment does just the opposite. What’s more she clearly thought this was correct. She said “your waist goes up in the front and down in the back so should your pants”  But I hate these pants just for the crotch and wouldn’t wear them anywhere.   I’m waiting for Louise.  I could make some down-n-dirty adjustments.  But I’m feel like I engaged Louise –for no cost – and I should be following her lead instead of winging it on my own.


So I’m setting it all aside and starting something else. I need to occupy my mind and hands with a different project and quit making a mess with these.