OnePatternPiecePants, template

One pants

originally published9/23/11




I had a brain fart about pants, again.  I was so surprised when I tried to fit Louise Cutting One-Seam pant.  They were horrible on me, front and back.  I’d made Sandra Betzina’s version for years and loved it.  Made both the slim and full legs. Added pockets and hem treatments. I just used and loved that pattern to death.  I took the last out of my closet when I lost 10 pounds in Jan 2010.  The last pairs were bagging pretty badly, I assumed due to age and weight loss.  I wondered now, Did they really fit that well? Or did I just not see the issues because I never photoed them but always just starred into the mirror? I pulled out the 2 patterns and compared Sandra’s Slim Pant with Louise’s tapered pant. The crotch both front and back, the leg shaping and the waist band is significantly different.  It is quite possible that Louise’s pattern wasn’t drafted to fit my issues.

Except for one thing.  I’d made the EAC (Easy Ageless Cool) pant earlier this year. I like the EAC except for 2 issues.  I don’t like the hems of my pants to exceed 19″ and I didn’t like the seam up the front of the pant.  The seam rubbed and irritated me.  I did voice this and Louise asked me to explain what I was talking about.  I don’t know how else to describe my issue, so it remains unsolved and I won’t make the EAC again.  I tried slimming the leg, which resulted in the leg twisting. Obviously, I don’t know the right alteration for that problem.  The front crotch was a smidgen too long.  Just enough that I do notice.  These were summer pants made of a nice crinkle rayon.  When summer was over, I donated the pants. I keep the pattern, not for the pants, but for the fabulous camp shirt. It’s wonderfully comfortable without adding visual pounds.

But back to the pants.  I was patting the pile of muslin fabrics (discovered during the last refolding of the stash), when I  realized the only way to be sure of whether the Betzina pants ever fit or not,  was to make a quick muslin.

The really nice thing about these no-side seam type pants is how quick they do sew up.  One-seam is a misnomer.  You have a front crotch and a back crotch seam, then a leg seam and you have to do something about the hems. But even at that, these pants are fairly quick to put together.  I was ready to take photos in  about 30 minutes.  I used paper tape to “hem” my pants and I didn’t bother with putting in the waistband.  I just pinned the elastic together and pulled the pants up underneath.

Well I have pics, but you’ll never see them. I had 3 sizes, small medium and large (in the slim pant).  I’m not sure what happened to the Extra Large I used to use, but I can assure you that the large was entirely too small.  Now I might be able to grade out the pattern to a larger size, or add enough ease to get the pant to fit. But I’m not going to. In fact, I believe I’m going to ditch/trash/throw away all 1 seam pants.  Interestingly, the butt-vortex was not present, but the X wrinkles in the back of the leg were prominent, a vertical drag line from knee to hip was clearly evident and the front crotch was just as ugly as it was with the CLD One Seam.

In the unforgiving eye of the camera, this is not a style for me PERIOD.