I should be working on my black wool coat or my black silk jacket. But I sidetracked into fitting One-Seams and thereby pants. Which cycled me back into a project from summer.
I had intended to take Burda 2010 April 143 and morph into an all ’round good basic pant. 143 is drafted as a long pant, with jean style front pockets and a straight waistband. I was particularly pleased that the finished hem circumference was 18″ That’s still a bit more than I think ideal but much less than the 22 inches I usually see in trouser type pants.
I’ve made shorts from this pattern using both woven and knit fabrics; and cropped pants but never the full length pant. I didn’t have to tilt the waist. It was already tilted some by Burda. I copied the crotch from my perfect Bermuda shorts. The Bermuda shorts are also a Burda design but all I have is the style # 115 written down. No month. Interestingly, the 115 pattern scoops the crotch in a tilted manner i.e. deeper in back and angling up to the front. The result is a Burda szie 46 pants fits me quite nicely:
The pictures are from the try on. I took pictures of the final pants, but somehow transferred them from the camera to La La Land. So I’m sharing the final fitting pics which were a bit too long and a bit too loose in the waist. I hemmed these pants at 2″ instead of my usual 1-1/4″. I didn’t change the waist. I nailed the belt loops into position and put on a belt from the finished pics.
These pics are rather good, but the final was amazing. All the wrinkles just disappeared. Let me rephrase that: Hemming and bringing the pant into it’s correct position at the waist eliminated all the folds, drag lines and wrinkles. I have only one teeny issue on the left side:
It leans to the back starting at the high hip all the way to the waist. This happens on the right side as well, but is not quite so clear. I’m wondering if I need a larger size in the back because it also looks like the back half of the leg is smaller than the front. Someone else suggested this possibility on another pair of pants and I never followed up.
If I ever find the “Finished” photos, I’ll replace these. In the meantime, back to the winter coat.
ETA Correction: I just dug out the magazine to compare sizes of back pieces. This pattern was not drafted with a straight waistband. I did that. I replaced their elastic back and funny two piece with a straight waistband. It was also drafted to have a side zip and faux front zipper plackette. Also gone. If I’m making a frotn zipper placette it’s going to have a zipper in it and not in the side seam. I had totally forgotten about these little details.