originally published 9/30/11
I had several things to do yesterday as well as working on mending, alterations and the almost UFO. I did get back to the one seams and surprisingly, whipped up another pair. The beauty of this style is how quick it sews. This pair, is made from a plain weave nylon fabric. I really thought it was microfiber and it may be. I gave it the burn test. I couldn’t smell anything but the description of the flame, ash and bead most closely resembles nylon. Most closely, but not exact. I may need a different burn chart. I like this fabric for it’s unusual color, a grey on the blue side and wonderful drape. It has a napped feel and because of that I made a big mistake. I measured the amount needed for one length, whacked it off, turned it around so the grains would match and then put my pattern piece on top and started cutting out.
Whoops, lets back up. I reversed the crotch adjustment so that the front is 3/8″ shorter and the back is 3/8 longer. Since I hated the flute at the top of the waistband, I marked 1/2″ and folded it down. Although I’m still not convinced a 2″ hem or 4″ of waistband is really essential, I left those areas alone. That can be fodder for future versions.
Back to the error, somehow when I whacked that first piece off, I cut it unevenly across the top and it was actually about 1″ shorter than I needed. Big whoops. Now there are number of possible fixes. So I didn’t let the whoops mean throw the fabric away. I can see cutting off the waistband portion. After all I taped the 4-1/2″ piece to the waistband why not remove it and make a separate sewn on waistband? (Allowing for seam allowances, of course.) How about some of the other waistband finishes such as facings, elastic facings, etc? What I decided up on was serging a piece to the top and then finish cutting the piece out. I think of those other suggestions as possible changes for future versions. For now, I want to keep the pattern drafting pretty much intact. My solution however will look odd when worn. One side of the waist will have a seam that the other does not. I could make multiple straight line stitches across both sides of the waistband. The odd seam would then hide within the “faux” seams. I opted for a belt. It meant an additional 10 minutes making and attaching belt loops. For fitting, I leave the belt off. When wearing in public, I will add a belt.
I edge stitched the top of the cut-on waistband and then stitched through all layers and belt loops 1-3/4″ below. I did a nice job hemming this time, even though the pant is still serged on the outside edges and basted together in the seams. I’m tired of making muslins and wanted this to be at least a prototype or wearable muslin. I used the same soft elastic as with the Louise muslin in the waistband. I wore the pants for a half hour before taking pictures. I remember what Louise said about the weight and heat of the body causing the pants to shift slightly downward and settle on the body. I wondered if that was a factor with yesterday’s before and after photos.
I am really really pleased with the front. It feels right as well as looking right. My opening pic for this post shows a slightly sloppier pant would occur from my usual posture. I think TK tried to point out yesterday that this is a loosely fitting pant and should be accepted as such.
I’m also tickled with the side view. I can see I need a little better pressing of those hems, but I love how the pant just hangs from the side, skimming everything, revealing nothing.
And I’m totally flumnuxed by the back. Were those wrinkles there yesterday? Let’s go back and see
Not really. I wonder was it adding the 3/8 to the back crotch length, or taking it away from the front crotch that created the back wrinkles? I seem to always have this problem with pants. The front looks nice; the back is ugly. Even with the additional 3/8, the back crotch is still pulling downward. I feel air on my spine and I feel pressure against my lower seat. I wonder if I’m running into Myrna’s anomaly where the seat drops lower than the crotch? A small flat rear end, I do not have.
I’m going to work with this pair and wear this pair. My first alteration will be shortening the back crotch. If that takes the wrinkles out of the back leg, then I will work towards giving my rear some room. I do have a 5/8″ seam allowance which can be let out some. And whether it’s highly frowned upon or not, I will scoop the crotch out if that’s what my bu!! needs. TIFN