originally published 8/19/11
Having a wadder and a near miss within days of each other, I decided to go all the way back to the least amount of adjuments for the second pair of pants. That would be my JSM Size D, 2nd draft.
These are a classic trouser, or would have been had I pleated the front instead of adding darts. I dispensed with any pockets and with belt loops. They are delibertely long and being trousers are a little full BUT very comfortable. (They can be better styled than this. I wanted a quick-check-the-fit shot and was so pleased I didn’t do anymore.)
I reccolected this fabric as a wool/cotton. But working with it gave me pause. It resists wrinkling but will look mussed if left in a heap. Presses easily. Looks a little dressy and was just a joy to work with. It raveled very little and cooperated with both serger and sewing machine making for an easy sewing experience. Finally I did a burn test. The unmistable aroma of hair burning filled my sewing area. The swatch was reluctant to catch fire but once started it burned a nice big orangish flame. I had to snuff it out. I believe it would have continued to burn slowly. I might have been satisfied with my original rememberance of wool/cotton except for the ash. The ash was a dark grey, no bead but a lacy structure with a little shine was left. I must revise my fabric description to wool/rayon. I might agree however to a 3 way blend because of the shine to the ash.
As I mentioned this was a joy to sew. I cut one day. Stitched a little the next day and finished the following morning. No big issues, although I did stitch the waistband with a long stitch (not basting) so that I could easily remove the waistband for alterations. I may remove some of the ease and length after a trip or two through the laundry. After this summer’s experiences with 100% linen, I’d like to have a little insurance that I can wear such a lovely garment more than twice.
I did add a gusset to the back crotch. the fabric was just not quite wide enough for front and back to be placed side by side. The back crotch overlapped the front by about 2 inches. I just didn’t want to have 2 big ol’, awkward sized pieces to try to figure out how to use, put in the stash or throw away. Especially when the fabric is this nice, if I have any left, I want it to be big enough to actually use.
Other than a little big and too long (must wear heels), I don’t see anything bad about these trousers. I emphasized that because the fit of
trousers, jeans and slacks are different and need to be compared to each other. It is like comparing apples, cherries and oranges. Yes 3 fruits. Yes 3 pants. But 3 different flavors.
This fit was also a great relief. I excused the pants made from the ponte as being an issue with the fabric; but was really concerned about the fit of the TJ906. To have this pair fit correctly reaffirms that I’m doing the right thing. There must be an error with either the pattern or the fabric of the previous pants.
Ah ha! This also means I can update my 6PAC Progress:
Did you notice that in addition to the 3 completed garments, I’ve also selected a pattern for the Jacket? Well it’s going to wait a few days. I’ve run across a new pants alteration that sounds designed just for me. It’s named the Clown Butt alteration and is designed for the person with a prominent rear. Read about it at Sewing on the Edge.