originally published 5/27/11
That was quick! I want you to see this because it’s important. In the next photo, I’m comparing my altered JSM pattern (the one I can take out, cut and sew a pair of pants in 2 hours and 1fitting) with the current pair of pants (from the O pattern). I’ve carefully pinned the pant on top of the pattern. Ever so carefully smoothed the fabric over the pattern and pinned along the way which reveals that the O pant is already scooped at least 1″ lower than my JSM pattern.
Maybe scooping was not necessary? But can you also see that the crotch of the O pant is 1-1/4″ shorter than the JSM pattern? Seeing that I decided to add a gusset to the back crotch of the O pant. I was going to remove the serging (which prevented further unraveling); cut and add a gusset. I steamed the heck out of the WST (water soluble thread) in the crotch area. The WST, of course, fell apart to include the WST holding the inseam together at the 5/8″ mark. My gosh, instant addition of crotch length. I decided to see just how much addition by basting at the 1/4″ SA for both inseam and crotch and then, what else but taking pics?
Let’s change things about and evaluate the side view first. Looks OK except for the wrinkling in the seam below the crotch. That’s where the WST is holding the seam together at 5/8″. I did not press before taking pics so I’m ignoring minor wrinkling. But I do see a bubble on the back above the high hip. When did that get there?
On the front,
- The hems definitely need pressing. Boy that’s ugly. But I’m ignoring that as a minor finishing issue.
- The pu bic area is no longer dreadfully delineated.
- I still see a little bit of a downward smile and of course
- the padded roll just beneath the waistband. I wonder if the smile will disappear when the pant is properly pressed? But I think I’ll play it safe and let the pant front down from the waist band, maybe 1/8″.
- What you can’t see is the bubble in the front of my pants which occurs only when sitting down. This occurs when the front crotch extension is too long. The excess must go somewhere so it bubbles up in front. Obviously the back can’t use the extra, even if it would like to.
- A little bit of a bubble above the high hip. Maybe I should taper the raising of the front all the way back to the first back-dart. No, all the way to the CB.
- I could probably stand another 1/4″ at the end of the back crotch extension. But I don’t have it for this pant and I hate to add a gusset for 1/4″. Especially since I’ll probably wear something on top to cover it up.
- All the wrinkles along the inseam now from crotch to ankle bother me. Is the WST creating problems? I have had a little steam going on which would cause the WST to shrink. The wrinkles point from inseam angling up and out to side seams. (Or is it from side seam in and down to inseam? I’m not sure.
- The CB is still pulling downwards, but at least it is not rubbing my tailbone. Perhaps now is the time to add just a bit of bottom scooping?
See ya in 15 to 20.