Burda 2010-11-129: Fitting

originally published1/29/11


Thanks for your comments and support yesterday.  I tried to be patient, but just couldn’t.  I did a shout out to a sewing angel and starting working on her immediate feed back.  Part of the solution process was ripping out the 2 center-leg seams on the back pants leg. There are no side seams per se. With those flapping in the wind (and exposing my underwear), it was easy to see that the crotch was too short both front and back.  BTW, I’ve read the fashion incubators thoughts on camel-toe.  She’s quite interesting and mostly right.  But the only solution for camel toe is not redrafting the pattern and starting fresh.  In my case, I let the seam out as far as possible.  Almost worked, but still I had just a little tug. 


So I went the other direction and scooped the crotch front and back.  Now I also know that there are many sewing experts that are death on scooping.  But this is a respected and used alterations method.  I can remember my dad having a pair of trousers altered in this fashion.  When he got the trousers back from alterations, we couldn’t tell they’d ever been changed.  The fit was perfect and the inside was perfect. OK this was in the days when men bought their suits as the men’s haberdashery and in-store staff was available to make alterations for free.  Part of the price of the suit, was ensuring that it fit you.  Mind you, my dad only bought maybe 3 suits a year and they lasted forever.  My point is that scooping is not a new phenom sweeping the sewing community.  It’s a tried and true method regardless of what the current crop of experts thinks. Oh and it worked. 


I won’t post these photos because they do show my underwear.  I don’t want to keep copies of my underwear out on the Internet for long.  So instead of a pic eventually there would be one of those nasty red x boxes.


This pattern is beginning to take some time and frankly boring me.  I’m annoyed to be spending my time refitting pants when it was the fashion detail I wished to experiment with.  Apparently transferring the crotch line from one pattern to the next along with adding hip ease is not sufficient to guarantee the next pair of pants will be easy to fit.  But I haven’t given up fitting these pants.  Since I scooped the crotch, I also trimmed the crotch seam and finished it.  Hopefully I didn’t do that too soon.  It’s just that I know if a crotch seam doesn’t lie flat and inconspicuous, it will interfere with later fitting. I still have the hip, (the bubble is not showing as long as the seams are flapping in the wind) and the pant length.  And that’s before exploring Gigi’s idea of narrowing the pant leg.  I’ve basted the back-leg seams again but this time at 1/4″.  Instead of ripping, I’ll be taking it in a bit at a time.  But with each change I need new photos and I haven’t take the next set of photos.


No instead of photos I was looking at the few pieces of fabric that I left in the closet Tuesday night.  I purposely left a beautiful silk herringbone with 2 different dark brown fabrics, a golden brown corduroy, purple stretch velvet and dark denim knit hanging for use until my Fabric Mart order gets here.  Last night I cut the silk and the silk charmuse to be used in Ver 3 of my NL6538 vest. I also cut the golden brown corduroy but using my TNT pants pattern from Joyce Miller. I’m debating on the stretch velvet.  I’d like to use Louise Cuttings 2×4 pattern.  Although the stretch velvet may not be a good choice for that.  My second choice is Butterick 5387, which is probably what I will do.  5387 is a trendy pattern and, as we all know, will be good this year and maybe next.  Trendy patterns should be bought and used immediately.  Louise’s 2×4 pattern will be usable for years to come.


But I’m also eager to start working with the ideas in Sew What Fleecehttp://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=sdBev&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1580176267&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr,  I’m hoping to eventually have enough drafting knowledge that instead of tracing 2010-11-129, I can look at Burda schematics and using my TNT JSM, I can draft my own version.  That’s probably asking too much. But I’ll never know if I don’t keep taking steps in that direction.  Last year I worked a lot with rectangular garments.  I thought I learned a lot.  I certainly did have a greater appreciation for pattern drafters.  I do understand that my fitting problems are not their fault.  My fitting problems are the result of my genetics and my eating/exercising habits.  This book takes my experimentation with rectangular pieces of cloth a step further.  From basic measurements it has you drafting simple-shaped  garments.  So there will be armscyes that are related to my arm; shoulder lengths that match mine, and room enough for my hips without adding or slashing or or anything else.  This is one I’ll have to keep you posted on.