originally published 11/29/10
Yes this will be done in multiple posts, I think 3. I probably could condense what I have to say. But I use my blog as a reference for myself. So it is important to have a complete reference, a total thought process documented when I come back to it in the future. So I want to start by reviewing my journey up to this point:
The crotch above is typical of most of today’s patterns. It is also available in a L shaped crotch. As with most women, my front crotch length is shorter than the back and I do need more fabric just to cover my back side. I seldom need to alter a pant front. But I have multiple problems with the back. The average pant, whether RTW or Big 4 pattern absolutely looks sucked into my butt right at the “ah ha.” It’s uglier to see than to read about.
The experts advise (1st alteration) making a vertical slit about 1” from the crotch tip leaving a hinge. Spread the triangle apart (hence the need for the hinge) and then fill in between and behind (see th green wedge above?) with tissue and tape.
That works as far as getting my pants out of my butt. However 2 other problems develop: Immediately the back pulls down at the center top. The side back does not extend forward enough. The front is pulled back and both side-front and side-back valiently try to cover my form making an interesing but undesired “s” curve of my side seams. The result of alteration #1 is requiring 2 more changes to the pattern: (2nd alteration) Increase the back crotch length with a horizontal wedge (3rd) Add ease with a vertical wedge (see the green areas below
These 3 alterations gave me a pant which didn’t get sucked into my butt, didn’t pull down at the center top, and extended to side so that no stress was placed on the front. But when doing the final fitting, I often found myself scooping out another ¼ to ½” in the bottom crotch (see red area) just to feel comfortable:
My pants look pretty good with these alterations. In fact I’ve sewn and worn numerous pairs. Happily. Pleased even. So much so that I have applied nearly the same alterations to other patterns with equally satisfactory results.
This is a good place to pause. I have, by choosing good basic blocks and applying these alterations, achieved pants that I can be proud to wear. This is a good place to be. This is pant happiness.