sdBev's Pants!

The Week In Review

Posted on: April 25, 2012

originally published06/30/2010

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w/Butterick5355Overblouse

The overblouse is intended to work with Burda pants 2010-04-118.  I shared in my previous post, that I completed a rayon crinkle fabric constructed from my favorite knits-only Tank Top – which BTW turned out beautifully.  But the pants themselves seemed stuck in never-never land with Streeto landing beside them.

Well not quite.  I did not hurry my decision on the pants.  I’ve learned that ejvc’s evaluation of pants is correct for me as well.  Every pattern, every pair must be carefully constructed with fitting evaluated and adapted every step of the way.  If not, I may as well purchase RTW; ugly, ill fitting RTW.  If I’m going to sew pants, I need to put the time, thought and effort into their fit and construction.   So I spent 4 or 5 days constructing these pants; wearing them 3-4 hours daily; making one change a time. Until I was unsure…  I liked they way they fit across the hips; in the rear and at the waist.  I liked how they looked in the mirror and pics.  I loved they way they felt.  But I wanted a narrower leg.  Totally stumped, I decided to clean the pants and rethink.  After cleaning, I hung the pants on Mimie, styled with the new Rayon Tank and the new Silk Overblouse.  Oh my I loved them even more.  I loved them even though they were not what I had originally envisioned.  I decided to finish them as is.I constructed belt loops, stitched the waistband in permanently; added button and buttonhole.  Gave a good pressing, evened up the hems and finished by serging the side seams and inseams before hand stitching the hem.  Yes HAND stitching.  I felt that these are a little on the dressy side.  The wool/Dacron blend creates a wonderful pant fabric with perfect drape and no-see through issues while still being light.. I took my time with the final pressing.  I savored the aroma of wool being steamed.  Funny, I’m allergic to wool, but I do love the aroma while wool is being pressed. And then, I lovingly hung the pants on an appropriate hanger.  I’m hoping to wear these this week on our monthly shopping trip to Mitchell. I do hope to have a worthy photo to show you.

Ah but I’m not done.  No, I made still more productive gains.  I cleaned the sewing and stash rooms not just vacuum and trash but putting all the little items away i.e. patterns, bindings, buttons.  Yes everything that was out of place has been returned to the designated spot.  And then, I begin retracing the pattern.  But I started with the already traced pattern and applied the final changes to my new tracing.  I still believe that original tracing to be valuable since it captures a perfect crotch as long as I want it to end exactly at my waist.  The new tracing, however, captures my desired fit with the exception that the legs are still wider than I prefer.  Oh and I’ve already picked a fabric to pursue my “perfect fit”.  It is a silk, no lie.  But a beefy silk.  Lots of body, good for summer pants.  Yes summer pants.  While beefy, silk in this form is still light weight and encourages air circulation so it will be cool – temperature wise- to wear.  I’ll have another post in a few days or week.  We have things to do, pleasures to experience.  But I am anxious to pursue fitting the perfect trousers. Oh and I noticed one thing very import.  When I finished the pants, the hem width was 21.5.  Burda said these should finish at 22.5.  That means my final adjustment brought the pant legs back in line with the original design.  When I transferred my changes to the pattern, I drew a horizontal line 1″ below the crotch.  I marked a vertical line all the way to the hem and then 3/4″ on either side.  Opps, I did this twice3.  Once next to the inseam, once next to the side seam.  Then I cut straight up that line and overlapped the hem 3/4″ on both adjustment lines.  I’ve got this “Draft 2″ cut out and have begun to sew.  I’m having problems waiting to finish.  Although I won’t be entirely finishing.  I’ll be sewing zipper, darts and front crotch in permanently.  The rest will be serged at 1/4″ and basted at 3/8” until I do the first fitting.  I have my fingers crossed and I’m holding my breath.  I do hope the changes I transferred to the 2nd Draft creat a great fitting pant for me. Oh I do, I do—but I’ve already lost 2.4 pounds this month. So how long will this new draft fit???

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