The Refitting Sage: TJ906 II

originally published 9/3/10


I have decided..  I didn’t decide overnight.  No I thought about this carefully.  I blogged about my experience the day after the second set of alterations.  I wore my new jeans that day and was infinitely pleased with them. The next day I did mending, straightening and a little cleaning and the following day some monthly shopping. But the point is that for 3 days after the construction of Pair #2, Size 12, TJ906, I gave the situation the light touch.  I put it in the back of my mind and let my creative side contemplate until I reached some decisions.


One of my decisions is that the jean fabric may have been savior just as easily as or more likely than sinner.  It was a heavy weight denim.  It was stiff.  But it also behaved very well during cutting and cooperated heartily during steaming and pressing.  Yes I had to recut pieces as they were sewn together.  Yes I had to steam and stretch to get pieces to seam together.  But it did cooperate during this handling and  was surprisingly comfortable during wear.  I realized that the consecutive pattern alterations as well as all the handling was probably the culprit preventing the shapes from fitting together. 


So I started by retracing size 12 from the original pattern.  Then I carefully removed 1″ from the length above the knee on all 3 pattern pieces.  I made sure I removed the same amount all the same distance above the knee and all folded in the same direction.  Then I did the same below the knee but removed 2″.  I carefully renewed the grain lines and trued the curves.  Since I seem to have an excess of fabric between butt and knee, I chose to true more to the inside i.e. removing a  sliver of fabric rather than adding a sliver.  After careful consideration, I also added 1.25″ length to the back crotch.  I did so by taping the 2 pieces together and slashing across both.  This is hard to explain but I added 2 pieces of tissue so that I could maintain the seam allowances on both back leg pieces.  I thought carefully and then extended the back crotch extension a mere 1/4″.  I was afraid if I didn’t extend it at all, I would have the butt vortex again.  I can remove that little bit easily – with a little ripping of course- but adding it afterwards is difficult.  I’m not comfortable with front pockets.  They seem too small for my hands.  So I drew new pocket shapes thoroughly intending to incorporate a tummy stay. I was surprised to find that the original pocket pattern didn’t match up with the pants front.  Oh it’s not off that much.  Maybe I shouldn’t even mention it because I’m talking about 1/8″ here and 1/16″ there.  Not much at all.  These differences might actually be needed so that the pockets lay correctly.  I have made 3 pairs of TJ906 in the larger size and each one was wonderful.  It occurs to me that TJ is right and I am being anal and shooting-myself-in-the-foot.  But at this point, I am so intent on making the pattern just as perfect as I can.    And then….



I halted. 


I wanted to think about my changes overnight before cutting my fabric.  I don’t have a shortage of fabric.  But I’d like to know that my TNT pattern is once again a TNT becuase I did everything right- for a change.