originally published 6/21/10
I didn’t get back to fitting the 118 pants as soon as I would have liked. Life intervened and took over one day. Then I spent four days completing pattern re-organization, a well overdue task, but very, very worthwhile. In fact, in the prior 6 months, I wished several times that I had already completed this particular task. And concurrently, I was working towards fitting this pattern; in what may seem to be a piece-meal fashion. The thing is, I’ve noticed that that well-meaning and typical fitting advice doesn’t always apply to my body. For example, my pants often have diagonal wrinkles below my hip:
The most often offered advice and BTW the fitting manuals from Sandra Betzina and Palmer and Plesch show photos and offer the very same advice; is “Do a flat butt Adjustment”.
Which never helps. I’ve tried it several times. Usually I end up with more winkles instead of less. A flat butt adjustment doesn’t help, because my butt looks like this:
My butt is not flat. I just display the same wrinkles that a flatt-butted 80 year old woman would also display.
So I do not accept without careful consideration any well meaning, logical advice. I do consider it, carefully. I just don’t automaticall apply said advice. To start fitting this pattern, I relied upon my previous experience fitting 2010-06-115 trouser-draft shorts-pattern. These are the “Holy Grail” of shorts for ME. 2010-06-115 fits so wonderfully perfect, that I wanted to transfer all my fitting adjustments to a new-to-me long-leg, trouser-draft, straight-waistband, pants-pattern Burda 2010-04-118. To do so I traced the pattern from the magazine and then made the following alterations:
- +1.75″ to back crotch length
- +1.75 to front crothc length
- -6 inches to lower leg
- +1″ to back crotch extension (from extension to hem)
- + 3/4″ to front crotch extension (from extension to hem)
- +1″ to front width (at side) from waist to hem
- +1″ to back width (at side) from waist to hem
- I traced both the back crotches from 118 the current pattern and 115 the perfect fitting shorts pattern.
That looks like a long laundry list, but Sandra Betzina has written that the average person will have to make 10-12 adjustments to any and every commercial pattern in order to achieve acceptable fit. Acceptable fit. Not perfect, but fit you can live with.
I did get the fabric selected, basted together with the 118 back crotch shape and tried the pants on for all of about 5 minutes before dinner was served. I had time however, take pictures which I studied the next day.
To say I was utterly preplexed, is an understatement. For the final on todays post, take a look at the photos from the first fitting. Ok I know my top is covering some critical aspects. But having made major changes all transferred from the perfect fitting shorts, well I was expecting something different.