Even more Ciggie thoughts

originally published10/25/10


Yes more thoughts. Well OK it’s like swimming in place in the sewing room which leaves me plenty of time for thinking.  After the clean up of the big scraps, I started finishing projects.  In the midst of that DS sends me 3 movies, actually TV  series to watch.  The DVD’s were carefully packed and wrapped with 2 pairs of expensive jeans.  HIS expensive jeans which have accumulated numerous rips and worn spots.  He wants to wear these for work now instead of play and wanted the holes darned.  I was only too happy to do so; I am his mother after all, but it does mean that I’m not sewing on the projects of my imagination.


So my mind thinks on about the ciggy pants because I seem to have paused in my sewing plans and I am truly excited about the possibility of using a perfect fitting basic pant pattern to develope other pant styles.  I will as neccessary, eliminate certain styles, fullness or lack thereof, from my patterns.  That’s not such a drastic statement.  I already know that certain lengths are most attractive on me and some are a safety factor for me.  Those are the lengths that I checks against my patterns and use.  Why would I not identify the best amount of fullness for my figure and use that too?


Today I am thinking mostly about developing the fit through the thigh. On the first pair of ciggie pants, I started by removing the same amount of fullness from the front and back at the seams. After the 3rd basting however, I realized the front was about perfect, but too much fulness remained in the back leg — wait for it — under the bum and above the knee. Yep right where I always have problems with folds of fabric. I ripped out the 3 lines of basting starting at the thigh and ending at the knee levels. When I pinned the legs back together, I offset the front and back side seams so that more would be removed on the back. I did that twice on the side seam and then once on the inseam. At that juncture, I was amazed. My pants were looking something like I wanted.


So when I work on this draft again, I will

honor the 1/2″ SA

use 3% lycra fabric

baste and fit that thigh better

I’ve already removed 1″ from the leg length — that’s in addition to the 2″ removed above the knee when the pattern was first traced


When this version fits to my satisfaction, I do plan to remove more fullness from the leg both above and below the knee.  I remember  ciggie pants as being closer fitting than these are.  I like them, but I want the ciggie pants I so admired when I was a child and too young to choose ciggie pants for myself.


At the knee itself I will be very careful.  The knee is snug having only removed 1.5cm, as per Trudy Jensens instructions for the ciggie pant style.    The ciggies pants of my childhood did not have lycra. At some point I will be trying non-stretch fabrics in these slimmer widths.  I’m sure to create wadders at that point.  I truly do not like wearing clothing which restricts my body movements.  I do know that clothing which fits, can be cut much more closely to the body’s dimensions and still be comfortable to wear.  This is a great challenge that I’m excited to explore. I plan to finish with trousers in 3-4 distinguishable fullness using both stretch and non-stretch fabrics.


And then?  I plan to continue to work through Trudy’s style changes. Oh my this will be so much fun.