JSM, template

Ciggy Pants

originally published10/22/10



Oh I love these pants and they are not yet perfect:


They seem to have a bit too much ease in the front (possibly front or back crotch is too long) and too much fabric under the bum in the back yet they are just a smidge too tight across the hip . Plus the legs are too long.  I’m undecided as to whether I should immediately hem them or wait for a few wash cycles. Despite these shortcomings I love these pants.


Why? My goal with drafting is to be able to modify my TNT patterns with current details.  For these pants I selected a twill weave, 3% lycra/cotton blend fabric. I pulled out my TNT pants pattern the JSM basic block and using the Pant Fitting instructions from Trudy Jansen 

 I created this slim legged pant.


The book gives details for drafting a basic pant and then morphing it to classic pants, slim pants, wide drawstring, cut on waistband, shorts and jeans. Just what I need.  I confess here, that I’m tired of tracing a pattern and then making several muslins to achieve a wearable garment.  For this pair, I cut the fabric using my already fitted basic pant pattern.  Then I followed the instructions and traced onto the cut fabric the changes needed to morph from basic to slim pant.  The zipper and pockets were permanently sewn as was the top 9″ of each side seam and all but 6″ of the waistband.  Now it did take me 5 fitting tweaks to get the pants looking like they do. But the point is, they are wearable. They are not a muslin to be tossed.


I’ll also point out that styling makes all the difference. Yes indeed, belt, shoes, accessories, posture 

change this:        To this:



I have traced the pattern and made TJ’s changes to the new tracing.  I still need to transfer my final fitting tweaks before cutting the next pair. Yes of course there will be a next pair and probably at least one more pair after that before I file away the tissue as a TNT. But it’s just so dang nice to start with a pattern and end up with a wearable garment without several wadders muslins in between.


About that title… did you wonder what a “ciggy” was? When I was a kid, the ones I was in awe of (i.e. the bigger kids) referred to cigarettes as cigs or ciggy’s. So when I read Trudy Jansen’s instructions for slim pants which she calls cigarette pants, I just had to call them “ciggy pants.”