Burda 2010-04-118 2nd Draft in SILK

originally published 6/30/10


Not silk  like silk satin or silk chiffon or even duopioni, but a woven silk, with body.  Not a heavy slub, but a textured feel to it.  I purchased the silk during one of Michaels sales.  I wish you could feel and see it in person because the picture of this swatch:




just can’t tell you what a wonderful fabric it is.  I purchased this after my vacation to the Gulf.  Walking along the shores of Texas convinced me of a few things.  First and foremost I want to go back every year.  South Dakota is my home.  Here is where I have close friends and life activites that are most important.  There is where I leave all my troubles behind.  Walking along those shores, especially early or late in the evenings, as the breezes picked up and at times felt like stiff winds, convinced me I needed a little more fabric covering my body, adding warmth as I soaked up the incredible life force all around me.  Then there was the opposite situation. Again walking along the beach but with the sun beaming straight down, cooking me until I turned the same color as the delicious lobsters I was eating in the local restaurants.  Um, also a good reason for a little additional fabric.  Just a little something between me and a 2nd/3rd degree burn.  Before vacation ended last year, I knew I wanted something, light, comfortable, airy, wind protecting, sun-blistering protecting that could cover me head to toe as and when needed.  Michaels sale just allowed me to satisfy my curiosity and fulfil my desire. 


I wasn’t too sure about silk, however.  I haven’t experienced or heard much about silk in my life.  Mostly that it was a fabulous, expensive, drapable, expensive, comfortable, expensive, beautiful and did I mention expensive fabric.  I had no desire to spend time and money on a garment to be worn only once.  I hadn’t really heard of silk being worn for such a casual garment.  But I wanted the weather abating qualities I knew this silk would provide me.  So this pair of pants is a test.  Will silk work for this purpose?  Will silk survive this treatment?  Will I love silk as much at the end of vacation as I do now when I’m close to completing the pants?  I won’t know for a while, but I will share what I do now. 


For starters, it does make a nice beach combing outfit:


This lady does not appear to be overdressed or over-stressed but she might think about hemming the legs.  Oh that’s me definitely giving off the vibes I want for vacation.  I made the pants using Burda 2010-04-118.  In case you missed the post, I traced 2010-04-118 and made some major alterations to the pattern by comparing it to Burda 2010-06-115. I cut a nice cotton/dacron and fit 118 to my body.  Then because I wanted to preserve the pattern configuration of a crotch which reaches all the way to my waist, I copied the original tracing of 118 and transferred my fitting changes to the new copy from now on called: 2nd DRAFT.  


From 2nd DRAFT, I cut this SILK.  Darts, zipper and pockets were permanently stitched.  I did slant the pocket much more than usual so that I would be able to take in the side seams and still get my hands in the pockets.  I like functional pockets.  If they can’t be used, I don’t want to bother with pockets.  Just me, you may feel differently.  Thats OK.  So after permanent stitching what next? My seam allowances should be 3/8″.  My fabric was raveling so I serged the inseams, side seams and crotches at 1/4″, basted the waistband to the pants and safety pinned the hems in place.  Then it was photo shoot time.



Front: Not bad.  Other than the legs being long and I doubt that you can see it but there is a pin marking the knee.  It is falling at least 1.5″ inches below my physical knee.  I’m not sure if this is an issue.  The finished hem circomforance is 21.5″.  The leg does not appear to be hanging up anywhere.  It probably occured because of adding 1″ (or was that more) to the first draft. It’s not an issue with this version, this draft, but I would want to keep this in mind for future Burda pant patterns. i.e. If I add an inch above the crotch, I probably need to subtract an inch above the knee.



Side.  There’s always the question when looking at a photo of the side.  Are we looking at the side seam where it should be, or looking at an angle which is distorting our conclusions.  So let me tell you that I carefully taped a mark on the floor.  I line up the camera view finder and my foot with the mark.  So I can tell you that truly that I need to add more width to the back so that the side-seam will bisect my leg.  At least 1/4″ which I will need to remove from the front width. Ah yes Myrna said it best “everything affects everything else.” (Forgive me Myrna, I couldn’t find my link to your blog).   But other than looking long, I doubt that anyone else (excepting other dressmakers) will be able to see that the side view needs a little improving.


Now the back, but I urge you to with hold outright condemnation:


Yes, I see the drag lines pointing diagonally from hip to waist; and yes I see the folds under the bum all the way to the floor; and yesssssssssss the bum seems a little tight.  But I see, and I’m sure you don’t, that the waistband is only basted and pinned.  It is missing the clear elastic used in comfort waistbands.  It is missing a belt because the belt loops are flopping about instead of stitched in place.  It is missing a front button or other front closure, because this is a first fitting.  And just like the front and the side, the legs are too long.  The hems are puddling on the floor, which causes puddling up the leg.  While it’s tempting to rattle off 3-4 major fitting alterations, I’m not.  I’m going back to my Sewing Room, at the clear elastic, the button and button hole, stitch those belt loops in place and hem the pants.  When I return, sometime tomorrow or the next day, I will be showing you a well fitting, comfortable, beach combing, pants from silk, silk, silk.


BTW, I edited the Week In review to add pictures of Butterick 5355. Do look.  That’s wonderful pattern and I used a fabulous fabric (silk chiffon).  Together it’s a match made in heaven.



Also, if you really object to my adding things for sale to my blog, I think I’d like to know about it.  Tactfully of course.  But if you’d never visit my blog again just because I’m hoping someone would take a pattern or book off my hands, well I’d want to rethink what I’m doing.  But if you don’t comment, I won’t know.