2010 Autumn 6PAC: Pant Pattern Selection

originally published 07/27/10


While my swatches were washing, I played with fabrics. I narrowed my choices,. which I will write about, but tomorrow. Today I’m particularly impressed with my latest JSM block. I purchased a new pattern because my sizing has changed. I prefer to start with a new intact pattern rather than keep adapting from the previous. JSM patterns come in one size only necessitating the purchase of a new pattern if a new size is desired. I traced the regular size, although I’m going to check on the plus-sized waist. According to the pattern sizing, I should use the plus sized waist but I’m not sure. I traced the regular sized pattern cut it out and then opted to compare it with my last Burda 2010-04-118. Now I want to review the process to get to the lovely fitting of Burda 2010-04-118.


I actually traced shorts Burda 2010-06-115. A muslin and 2 nearly perfect versions of shorts plus a final perfect pair were made from this pattern. That would be 4 tries total. Then I traced Burda 2010-06-118 and transferred the final changes from 2010-06-115. First pair was good, very good, wearable even. 2nd pair is nearly perfect. I am wearing the 2nd pair and I love them. The 2nd pair was made from the cotton/silk whose scraps were used in testing the fringe for the paisley jacket. But that’s a total of 6 pairs and I probably need a 7th because there are just a few slight diagonal wrinkles at the knee that ought to go. (It’s one of those things that I notice, other sewists might notice and haute couture would turn-up noses. Fortunately, I have little interaction with haute couture types.) But for trousers 2010-06-118 is good. In a hurry, I would make another pair without attempting any adjustments and I’d wear them too. See the thing is once you start moving, your clothes will have drag lines. It can be very difficult or impossible to tell if fitting is the issue or body position is the issue. In the picture above, what you see are the lines radiating from my posture at the time the camera flashed. As far as the pattern goes, I did think that for sure, I’d like to add just a little maybe 1/2 over my high hip and maybe but not sure straighten the back crotch just a little more. But I’m pretty happy with that last draft so much so that I compared it to the just traced JSM.

Let me stop to say that the JSM was the first pattern that I traced and made straight from the pattern that fit well enough to be worn. I tweaked the larger size only at the waist. I was tremendously happy with the first copy and horrendously disappointed when it didn’t fit. I mean, I seriously considered stopping the diet and gaining back the lost 14 pounds.

But I decided to buy the next size smaller and fit the new size.

Can you imagine my delight and astonishment when I compared the new JSM with the 6-drafts Burda and found that they were nearly identical. Yes. Oh YES. Except the JSM has just a smidge more room over my high hip and just a little straighter back crotch and is about 2″ longer. So I’m looking at my new JSM last night and I’m so astounded, I can’t think. I quit sewing, well it was 12 midnight, and went to bed.

Today I’m going to look carefully at the plus size adjustments. Although the sizing says I need a plus sized waist, the tissue says I don’t. I also realized that the tissue says the knee of the JSM is about 3″ lower than the knee of the Burda. Since I have only 2 inches to remove, I’ll take out only 2″ but all above the knee. I believe that means truing the inseam and outseam, which I’m reluctant to do. I may just chop it all off at the bottom.

So that means, I will be using the JSM standard pants block to create my coordinating bottom.