originally published 7/31/10
You come to the point that you’ve both been dreading and eagerly awaiting for. OK you have several of those experiences in life, but in this case it’s a stitcher’s life, more importantly a dressmaker’s life who is on a never ending quest to find perfectly fitting trousers. So I’m at this point, a new version of an older pattern (purchased because the older was no longer small enough to fit), but I have this new version cut from good fabric — not muslined- some parts are permanently stitched together (zipper and pockets); it’s been basted together and carefully pressed. Hems are in place using only Steam-A-Seam and the incomplete waistband is pinned and sticking me; and I have:
OK not perfection but pretty good. I’ll show you the back in a second. First I want to share my observations. The pants feel a little too tight in the hips and are too long in the legs, but for trousers I like the leg width. The side seam is perpendicular to the floor (another real plus) and the waistband fits really well. Definitely a surprise. I’d like to stitch the waistband permanently, put in the front closure and wear it for awhile just to see if the waistband really does fit that well. If you recall, I traced and added the plus size waistband because the size chart said I should, but the tissue said it was the same as the very good fitting waistband I was using. But I decided to follow the pattern drafter’s instructions. BTW the difference between the plus and regular size waistband is that the standard has 2 darts in back the plus has only 1; both have only 1 dart in front but there is just about an extra 1cm on the front piece.
Now keeping in mind that the pants are too long; the back:
which clearly shows that the pants are too tight in the hip and maybe the crotch. I think the first adjustments will be
- raise the hems 1″
- let the crotch out 1/4″
- let the outseam out 1/4″ but only from crotch level reducing to 0 at the waistband.
and then re-evaluate.