2010 Autumn 6PAC: JSM Trousers First Fit

originally published 7/31/10


You come to the point that you’ve both been dreading and eagerly awaiting for.  OK you have several of those experiences in life, but in this case it’s a stitcher’s life, more importantly a dressmaker’s life who is on a never ending quest to find perfectly fitting trousers.  So I’m at this point, a new version of an older pattern (purchased because the older was no longer small enough to fit), but I have this new version cut from good fabric — not muslined- some parts are permanently stitched together (zipper and pockets); it’s been basted together and carefully pressed.  Hems are in place using only Steam-A-Seam and the incomplete waistband is pinned and sticking me; and I have:


First Fit


OK not perfection but pretty good.  I’ll show you the back in a second.  First I want to share my observations.  The pants feel a little too tight in the hips and are too long in the legs, but for trousers I like the leg width.  The side seam is perpendicular to the floor (another real plus) and the waistband fits really well. Definitely a surprise.  I’d like to stitch the waistband permanently, put in the front closure and wear it for awhile just to see if the waistband really does fit that well.  If you recall, I traced and added the plus size waistband because the size chart said I should, but the tissue said it was the same as the very good fitting waistband I was using.  But I decided to follow the pattern drafter’s instructions.  BTW the difference between the plus and regular size waistband is that the standard has 2 darts in back the plus has only 1; both have only 1 dart in front but there is just about an extra 1cm on the front piece. 


Now keeping in mind that the pants are too long; the back:


which clearly shows that the pants are too tight in the hip and maybe the crotch.  I think the first adjustments will be

  • raise the hems 1″
  • let the crotch out 1/4″
  • let the outseam out 1/4″ but only from crotch level reducing to 0 at the waistband.

and then re-evaluate.