originally published 8/2/10
As I type I’m onto finishing the pants for my Autumn collection, but thought I would share pics from the 2nd fitting. For the 2nd fitting, I let out the sides (from crotch to waist) and center back crotch by 1/4″ each. That added another1.5″ of ease and feels really good and looks fine in the mirror. But when I look in the pictures, the trousers still look a little long in the leg and too tight across the bum. Now if they were jeans, I would leave them alone. After all jeans should be close fitting across the bum. Right? But these were to be trouser fit and I’d really like a more skimming fit in trousers. My 3rd and final fitting will include letting out the same seams the maximum amount and shifting the inseam to add more to the back as well as shortening the legs just a bit more.
But I don’t think the built-in pattern ease is the real problem with these trousers. The real problem is the fabric I chose. It is a wool/nylon blend with 0, zip, zilch, nada stretch. I’ve never worked with a fabric that had so little give. Because it is a wool blend, I assumed it would have some but I’m telling you it doesn’t give at all and hardly ravels. These pictures are also reveal every little detail because the fabric is light colored. I wanted that. I wanted to be able to tweak this pattern to perfection so that future versions would be easier to fit and dark colors would not be able to lie about wrinkles.
Before sharing the pictures I will warn you that some lumps and wrinkles are from my posture and at least one horizontal pull in front is from the knee brace I sometimes wear. Funny that there is no little stretch but such great drape.