originally published 6/4/2010
In particular the waistband on my new shorts
I know the first thing I have to do is adjust the waistband. If I accomplish nothing else, I need the waist to fit perfectly. I can’t accomplish any other fitting until the waistband fits. In fact, I’ve had to completely rethink my fitting process and understand, truly understand, like deep in my soul understand, that every garment must fit first from the point(s) that it hangs from. So blouses, dresses, jackets coats, other tops with shoulders must fit at the shoulder first; skirts, pants and and anything else that sits on the waist, must fit at the waist. It’s actually pointless to make any other adjustments until the hanging point fits.
So I’m contemplating fitting the waistband. I’m not sure if I stretched the fabric during handling. I did staystitch immediately and I did cut the interfacing seperately and smooth the fabric to fit the interfacing. But, there is still that chance that it could have stretched and I should have, but did not, compare the waistband back to the pattern before attaching the shorts. But it is what it is and what this really boils down to, is that I must fit the waistband on the shorts and then compare back to the pattern and make educated guesses as to how much the pattern needs adjusting. to that end I measured the shorts waistband 37.5″ Umm that seems large. I measure my waist. Sucked in with the tummy touching the backbone, my waist is 34″. Let it out for air and I need 35.5. Compare the two 37.5 and 35.5 or 34 and I have 2-3 inches of ease at the waist. Umm, that seems large. Even my fitting books recommend 1″ at the waist. I check the magazine. Yes the waistband should be at the natural waist.
So how much should I remove from the shorts waistband? I decide to measure the pants in my closet. My new shorts are a woven interfaced fabric. Nearly all my pants are either stretch fabric or eleastic waistbands. Oh I do have 3 pants woven fabric pants without elastic waistbands. That would be the 3 I made earlier this year and must now refit at least the waistband because they are too large and are falling off my hips. Other than measure and saying “that’s too much at the waist” I don’t think it’s going to help. Even my 14P “Just My Size” stretch jeans, which were never my waist size, have had elastic added to the waistband, My 2908’s have a 35″ waistband. (I’m deperate for something to compare with). That’s not surprising. The 4-6% stretch factor would account for the need for zero ease if not negative ease. I think I’ll go for removing 1.5″. I can always remove more, if I’m motivated. Once I stiitch, trim and turn, it’s hard to add fabric back to the waistline.
Ok so 1.5 ” between 2 seams or 4 sides. I’m not counting the centerback. The centerback does not have a seam line. I don’t want to put a seam line there Besides, I’ve serged the waistband and it’s facing at the topedge and then promptly understitched the serged seam to the facing. I have lots of little stitches to pick out. I don’t want to rip out anymore than necessary. OMG I may not be able to do this. But I don’t want to think about that now. Right now, I want to do the math 1.5 divided by 4 = .375 or 3/8″. OK I’m off to do some frogging. I think I can. I think I can……