Trudy Jansen 906

originally posted 3/23/2010

Two posts within 24 hours.  Definitely a rarity for me.  I’m more of the post a month or post a week type poster, unless I have a hot project going.  Which I seem to be doing.  I’m once again excited about fitting pants.  The success of the JSM trousers and the Jalie 2908 stretch jeans have fueled my ambition.  The Jalie 968 and KS3315 were disappointments, but I’m one of those onward and upward people.  I have a few more patterns in my stash that I wanted to try, even if I did get 3315 to be successful.  So it wasn’t too hard for me to blow off the Kwik Sew and more along to Trudy Jansen 906 jeans:

I did not upload my own picture.  This picture is provided courtesy of Trudy Jansens site and if you want to purchase or get more detail information, well just click on the link.  You will need to scroll down towards the bottom of this page.  Her patterns are listed in pattern number order, number 906 being almost at the very bottom.

This is a thoroughly interesting pattern.  In addition to its current looking design, it has a 3 piece back leg.  Most jeans are yoke + back leg; 2 pieces.  This jean is yoke plus 2 pieces for the back leg.  That gives me one additional seam when trying to tweak the fit.  When fit is an issue, the more seams you have the better you are going to be able to fit the garment. You don’t have to trust me on that. Start reading true designers blogs.  When they want a close fitting or just good fitting garment, they start adding seams. 

So now armed with my new pattern and a little more experience and knowledge in fitting pants, I began reading Ms Trudy Jansen’s instructions.   I read all the instructions, every page. Then consulted the sizing chart and “had a tink”.  I seem to be always making the back of my pants a size larger than the front.  I do think I tried on a pair of these pants and my complaints are the same as all my pants complaints:  If it fits nicely in the back,  the waist is too large and the front crotch is too long.  

I did consider tracing and cutting a first pair just straight out of the envelope and immediately scoffed at that idea.  I have never, not even the Jalie 2908, sewn a pair of pants that didn’t need alterations. NEVER.  So my next question was: what alteration(s) do I really want to make prior to cutting fabric.  I decided upon

  1.  Cutting size 14 for front and 16 for back pieces 
  2.  Reducing the front crotch length by 1″
  3.  Reducing the thigh length on front and back pattern pieces by 1″
  4.  Walking the seams and truing their length.

I did not create the front tummy facing.  much as I like it, I don’t want to invest the time in creating and sewing this piece. Why?  Well to be honest, I don’t think these pants are going to work either.  Another and probably shocked, WHY?  I looked carefully at the crotch shape.  I just don’t think there’s enough room even with a larger size for me.  As I was truing the length the front was longer than the back.  Remember I traced a larger back.  I expected the back to be longer as well.  But when I compared and yes I overlaped the yoke and pants back at the 5/8 SA; the back was shorter than the front.   I don’t know why, I just trued the length.  

I decided upon using the same twill fabric as I used for the last KS 3315.  I actually don’t like this fabric.  All the pictures were taken with this procedure:  

  1.   Make fitting change
  2.   Starch and press pants
  3.   Set up Camera
  4.   Put pants on
  5.   Push camera button which has a 10 second delay
  6.   Go stand in place and wait for flash – no sitting anywhere between

Repeatedly the KS 3315 pants look like I’d be wearing them for hours rather than the 10 seconds they were actually on my frame.  Unfortunately, I bought about 8 yards of this fabric.  I like the color and I like the weave.  I was thinking I could make one pair a year for 3-4 years. Always having a fresh pair every year.  But I can tell you that a pair that looks like I’ve been sleeping in them are never going to make me happy.  Until I figured that I had just found 6 yards of muslin. 

So tonight, I’ve traced my pattern, Trudy Jansen 906, made initial alterations to the traced pattern, pressed my muslin fabric. And now, I’m going to sleep.