JSM

…pants fitting too

originally published 1/5/2010

Update to the pants fitting saga. I stitched another pair. Well I started by altering the pattern pieces. I removed 1” from the center fronts, widened the back darts to 1/2” each on 4 darts and then wimped out. I did not remove the 5/8” from the back as planned. I kept remembering how the pant actually looked and felt close over my backside. As it turns out, that wasn’t such a bad decision. A full inch was too much to remove from the pant fronts. The side seam now seems to lean forward. The back was however still too large. I don’t have a picture to share. These are made from a black corduroy which photographs even worse then the dark grey. I mean no details are visible in the picture. Even in the mirror, I had to feel the side seams with my fingers to really “see” where they were laying. I again increased the center back seam from 5/8” to 1-1/8”. The pants hang comfortably from my waist. I had to make the scoop from the back and as always trimmed the crotch seam to ¼” and serged it for a clean, flexible finish. This pair of pants, is comfortable and wearable as the first. I must say, I much prefer this slower method of altering for fit. I’m creating garments I can wear, instead of wadders to throw away. I have no doubt that when I’m finished tweaking the pattern these first pairs of pants will go by the wayside or at least into a heavy quilt. But my point is I feel better about myself because I’m creating garments I can wear. I feel success although not perfection.

 I have already altered the pattern for the next pair. I removed 1 / 4 “ from front and 1/2” from the back. I actually do want to leave a little “fitting” ease. Not all fabrics will work the same, even with the same pattern. I think that like Elizabeth (ejvc), I will always be basting together some part of the pant so that it will be easy to adjust.

 Now I’m debating in my mind whether to start with the next fitting issue, which I think is to be the back crotch length. I have had to scoop out the back crotch in both pairs of pants and the back crotch still seams to pull down in the center back. I’m not sure if the answer is to scoop down further or if the answer is to add length to the center back. I do think it would be easy and not affect the waist fitting, if I added an even inch across the back at the top and the basted only the from the center front to the first back-dart on both sides. I must use a lighter colored fabric next time. I still don’t want to “graduate” to stretch fabrics. I don’t want to work with stretch fabrics until I have perfected the fit of the woven non-stretch fabric. So woven non-stretch fabric in a light color because I want to see every wrinkle and I want to see if drag lines develop when I add or remove length from the center back. I need to observe if the changes have any effect upon the front.

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