originally published 5/13/2010
Pants fitting that is. Just as I think I’ve figured out how to fit pants, something new happens. In this case it is lycra. Jalie 2908 is the perfect pattern for me to use with stretch denim. I do still have some very minor wrinkles between knee and bum. But they are hardly noticeable. In fact, if I didn’t use the lighten tool in my graphics program, I’d never be able to even see the 2-3 wrinkles only on the back leg-just above the knee and below my bum. Bless Jalie 2908. As long as I’m using stretch denim, bless Jalie 2908.
However, I’ve now made 3 pairs of stretch twill with Jalie 2908. I believe they are all 3 going in the donate box. The wrinkles between knee and bum are massive. I did a lot of research and several experiments. The only change which helped a little, a very little, was adding more ease right across the knee. With these pants, I can see that I am at least slightly knock-kneed. I’ve never noticed that before, but it is evident in each of the 3 pairs of stretch twill pants. In addition to the wrinkles between knee and bum, there are deep horizontal wrinkles across the back knee and 1 or 2 wrinkles completely cirumvating my upper thigh. What is suprising is that there is plenty of fabric in these areas. I can pinch at least a thumb full that’s about a half-inch, so 1 inches of ease minimum (more by the knee) and still there are wrinkles. Also, the butt vortex has reappeared and my tush is clearly outlined. (I got tired of typing bum. Tush works, doesn’t it?) Now if I was 20-something, I’d be OK with the tush view. But being slightly more mature, I prefer a more flattering drape. Something that skims everything and reveals nothing. As opposed to the hair counting that could be performed with the stretch twill Jalie 2908 jeans.
My conclusion is that I must use the Jalie 2908 only for stretch denim. Not stretch twill, or stretch broadcloth or stretch anything else. I tested the amount of stretch in the fabric before cutting. I got the required 20% the pattern specifies. But the stretch twill does not drape like stretch denim. So I’ve marked the envelope, “use with stretch denim ONLY”.