sdBev's Pants!

Jeans: TJ 906

Posted on: April 23, 2012

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originally published 3/23/2010

First fitting:    coming up.  Let me tell you how I reached this point.  After a night of tossing and turning (yes my life is so easy that my biggest concern is the fit of my next pair of jeans– That’s what you’re entitled to after slaving 40+ years in thankless jobs.  You retire and do what makes you happy.) So after a night of tossing and turning, dreaming about these pants, I decided that I really must change the crotch lengths.  I started my sewing session by extending the front crotch 1/2″ and the back crotch 1″.  When I laid these out on my 60″ twill fabric, I was shocked.  The pattern was not going to fit.  The pattern calls for 1.8 yards of 60″ denim and shows all the pant legs lined up across the folded fabric.  Wasn’t happening.  With the addition of 1.5 inches at the crotch points and a size 14/16 pattern, IT WASN”T GOING TO HAPPEN.  My first thought was to arrange the pieces so they would fit on the yardage, after all I had about 6 yards to work with.  But then I stopped.  Just sort of halted mid air.  I realized that these pants were going to require 3 yards of fabric maybe 4 for a 36″ wide fabric.  I asked myself, will I ever make real pants (this was a muslin), will I ever make real pants from this pattern if I have to buy 3-4 yards of fabric.  I think that even if I wanted to use the pattern, I would skip over it because of the yardage requirements.  

 

I needed serious thinking time.  I lowered my shears to the cutting table. Looked around; and went upstairs.  Now I know the more genteel of my acquaintence would be brewing tea.  But I needed serious thinking time, I made a rum and coke.

 

I’m like 90% sure that I have a “trial” pair of these jeans in a size 16 from my sewing angel.  I look at the trial jeans and realize that their crotch lengths are more in the 4″ range on both front and back.  I also know that these “try outs” are now too big.  When I received them, already sewn by my angel, they were just roomy and a little long in the front crotch.  During Thanksgiving/Christmas I appreciated the room as I gained 3 pounds.  But we are now nearing the end of March.  I’ve lost not only the 3 pounds gained during festivities, but another 2.  The jeans that were comfortably large are now dropping off my waist, laying low on my bum and tripping me.  Last week I added elastic to the waist just so I could keep wearing them a little while longer.

 

At first I thought, I’ll make the same size as my sewing angel did for me.  I even traced the front in a size 16.  Then I stopped and thought some more.  Making the same size that falls off me is hardly the solution. My KS3315 was a size 16 and was a nightmare.  Every seam had to be ripped and fiddled with.  Did I want to do that again?   Even the pattern recommends the next size smaller size (14) which has a 41.75″ hip (I’m smaller),  So I trace a size 14. Yep even thought I’d already traced a 14 front and 16 rear, and made multiple alterations to the previously traced pieces,  I start fresh and trace all pieces in a size 14.  I altered the legs, reducing 1″ above the knee and removed 1″ from the front crotch. But otherwise cut and sewed a straight 14.  No pockets- none zilch.  No topstitching None Zilch.  No hemming NONE ZILCH. No seam finishes NONE ZILCH.  I wanted to invest the minimum amount of time in this muslin.

 

RESULTS ARE :

 

 

My gosh they’re too small.  No wait. The legs are good. Very few wrinkles in the  front or back. Crotches are good.  Front isn’t hanging down low and the back isn’t sucked into the vortex. Side seam, my goodness, look at the side seams.  They are perpendicular and bisecting my leg.  Where are the cheerleaders.  That’s such a wonderful, rare event. They are too tight starting from about hip up to the contour waistband.  The waistband is a little loose right at the designated jean waist..  This could be from stretching.  The waistband is interfaced and stay-stitched, but the facing is not sewn on or stitched down. Even thought I’ve removed 1″ above the knee, I would still need to hem these about 5″.  So legs are too long.  I’m still concerned about the diagonal wrinkles between the knees and the bum.  This is the problem which killed the KS3315.  These are not as bad as KS3315 and after I let out some seams I might be OK. 

 

Alrighty then enacting Plan A:  reduce seam allowances to 1/2″; shorten legs by 3″.  I’m off…

 

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