sdBev's Pants!

Jalie Jeans !! FINISHED !!

Posted on: April 23, 2012

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originally published3/19/10

New Jeans :

 

Nice Huh?  Even on my nearly 60 year old body, this is a nice cut.  I think I even prefer the shirt-tucked view, but untucked is more my style. Oh wait till you see the lightened version.

 

 

I think th majority of the wrinkles are from how I am standing.  I make it a point to flex my legs and stand in positions that allow me to keep my legs flexed.  Otherwise I lock my knees and look very bowlegged and of course a whole different set of wrinkles.

 

I am particularly pleased when I compared the wrinkles in the finished back to the wrinkles of the first fitting back:

 

I think there are more and deeper wrinkles in the back of th first fitting.  The day before yesterday, I started to just finish the jeans and wear them as is.  Thinking I could get a few days wear while I decided how to correct the pattern.  Or even if i wanted to correct the pattern. 

 

For starters, I’m not accustomed to wearing skinny jeans.  But these don’t look terrible to me either in the pictures or in the mirror.  DH is usually really good about commenting when something looks bad or out of place.  He never said a word.  So although I’m undertain about the skinny, they do have plus points.

 

 

I like a mid-rise because it comes up to my waist, like these.  I don’t like low rise.  I have definite muffin-top.  No, lets me honest, I have revolting disgusting, vomit-producing muffin top. Low rise are no-go for me.  The regular rise ends up above my waist.  Who wants to wear their jeans all the way under their armpits?  Not me. So these are good as far as the rise.

 

I’m in the habit of trying on petite jeans too.  If I can find a pair that nearly fits me, I won’t have to lop 6 inches off the bottom and lose all the leg shaping.  I’m not sure if I want to alter the leg length of these.  I did hem them 3 inches, but as I wore them (oh forgot to mention I wore these all day yesterday), as I said as I wore the jeans they did seem to shorten in length. I’m waiting for the wash.  I only wash and dry my denim once before cutting.  Others recommend 3 wash and dry; or 1 wash and dry before cutting and one wash and dry before hemming.  I did not cut anthing off the length, just hemmed it 3 inches.  Oh and I used Steam-A-Seam to hem.  The legs looked terribly long.  When I folded the hem into place, it looked like only 3″ needed to be hemmed.  But I was still uncertain and used the SAS so that I could easily change the hem length.  Possibly I will be following the 1 wash and dry before cutting and 1 wash and dry before final hemming.   So uncertain about the leg length, but possible good or nearly perfect, depends upon the fabric.

 

I made 2 siginificant changes while finishing these jeans.  First was that I switched to 1/4″ seams throughout.  I think that gave me just the extra room that I needed.  Earlier I had thought that the jeans were too small in the back.  But I think that might be a trick of the camera, where and how I was posed.  I checked in the mirror and the seams were only slightly towards the back.  As the day wore on, the back actually stretched into place and it was hard to see that the side seam was not exactly bisecting my side.  So we get a plus for the 1/4″ seams and a + for the width of the pants.  I’m sure I could live with 1/4″ seams.

 

2nd significant change needs a visual aid:

 

 

 

You have to look closely at this picture of the back crotch and inseam.  The dark nearly vertical line is the original inseam.   I wanted to add an inch to the width of the back crotch.  I’m a person that needs more sitting room, more shelf room, more depth, more to go under me.  However you say it,  I need more fabric in the back crotch bottom.  This is accomplished by making a nearly vertical cut about an inch away from the inseam, cut all the way down about 7 inches leaving just a hinge.  Then rototate out the desired amount, for me it is usually 1 inch.  Slip a bit of tissue underneath and tape it all down.  Then the instructions are “true the crotch and inseam lines”.  Well,I wasn’t sure exactly how to true the lines.  I used my curve and lined up the front and back so their grain lines were identical and the knees level.  Then I shaped my back crotch up to meet the front crotch.  What you are looking at here with the red line was the thought, what if I ignore the front crotch and merely pencil in the crotch and inseam?  The difference is about 1″ on the inseam and some scooping out of the back crotch.  I have in effect been adding 1″ to the inseam as well as the back crotch.  When I sew the front inseam to the back, what happens to the excess?  Well first, I ease it in,  Easy to do, put the back inseam down, front inseam up and hold firmly on both sides while stitching.  Especially when easing between knee and crotch, it’s easy to squeeze in an extra inch.  I have been ruching the back inseam to the front inseam.  If you look at the back picture again you see the ruching begins at the knee on both sides.  The lower leg, from the knee down is smooth, wrinkle free.    Look:

 

If there was a first shouldn’t there be a second?  On every jean FIRST I ease the back inseam to the front inseam, then I stitch the crotches and then the SECOND change is to scoop about 1/2″ out of the back crotch.  “Truing” the lines as I did yesterday, results in both those things happening at the same time.  Now I worked that out on my pattern first by taping another sheet of tissue over my traced pattern.  Before I stitched up the inseams and crotch at 1/4″, I folded the backs together, placed my new pattern on top and trimmed away the execess:

 

 

 

interesting, doesn’t that look like about 1/2″ scoop from only the bottom of the crotch?   

 

I’m pretty sure I’ve been dong the same to all my pants.  I’ve known for several months that I need the sitting room.  But couldn’t figure out why I kept getting the wrinkles under the bum and in the upper leg.  Advice from the net ranged from knock-knees to flat-butt-adjustment to just pull up the back.  None of these ever worked.  I did finaly get a decent pattern that already had the room built into the back crotch and obviously the designer knew how to “true the lines”, because my JSM trouser pants are really good.

 

Final thoughts of these jeans, having worn them a day.  Because they are stretch fabric, I didn’t need a full 1″ extra in the back crotch.  I noticed while sitting that the back inseam was not bisecting my inner leg, but was coming forward and creating a bubble when I sat. Fortunately only when I sat.  That’s actually common, more in men then women, but is common.  I will take some of that out of the pattern.  Although I hate altering once I’ve serged seams, I may fix these jeans too.  At this point as far as the length of the legs is concerned, I’ll transfer the knee marking to the pants and measure that on me.  If the knee mark is lower than my knee (which I suspect to be true), I’ll reduce that amount out the leg, otherwise, I think I’ll leave the length alone.  These were advertised as a “boot cut” but they felt almost ’60’s to me.  I will be reducing the width of the boot cut.  It doesn’t look bad on me, but I already lived though the 60’s.  It’s not a decade I want to repeat. Finally, I want to compare the inseams to each other with a thought toward reduce the back inseam length even more.  Other than, I may get used to skinny jeans and this pattern will be a KEEPER.

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