originally published 4/14/2010
I’m continuing to sew pants with every other completed top garment. My last top a kwik sew tank, is in the wash and I may have to fix it before posting pictures. But I’ll explain about that in another post. While it is washing and drying I proceeded with the pants sewing goal with another version of Jalie 2908. Yes I loved the first pair. I have worn them 4 times and washed and dried them equally. I felt I wanted to tweak the fit just a little.
For starters the hem is 4 inches. I’m definitely missing some of the intended shape of the pants by loping off 4 inches. I have read that manufactuers design good quality jeans with a 36″ inseam. The intention being that the wearer could hem and rehem as needed. Well, I know if I paid $300 for jeans I would want that feature. But I think the person who can afford $300 jeans probably wouldn’t want the white line that shows up when letting down a hem. I can’t see the likes of Angelina Jolie wearing lace on her jeans to cover up that line. (One of the recommendations for camouflaging a rehemmed garment). As for myself I see no point in wasting the fabric which I paid for by either turning up a 4″ hem or loping off a smaller amount for hemming. And that makes an extra construction step, which takes extra time and effort. But there is something a little more for me. Long ago I decided my hems would be 1.25 inches. At the time, we’d never heard of sergers and I couldn’t afford a pair of pinking shears. Oh and by the way a zig zag machine was a dream or for the rich. Though a straight stitch was normal in most households and was regularly and expertely used by all female members. So all my hems were manually trimmed to 1.25 inches and then the top edge was folded under a precise 1/4″. I could blind hem in such expert fashion that the thread was not seen from top or bottom. I think that’s why I’m always dissatisfied with machine blind hemming. It never has and never will be able to achieve my own personal best. And the point is, the 1.25″ is my standard. My personal standard. The 1.25 inch hem says made by Bev. So Tweak #1 I want to remove 2″ from the length of the leg.
The first pair seemed, well snug from the get go. I thought that might be the styling. My hip at the time was about 1/2″ smaller than the recommended for size X. I realized that my perception was affected by working with non-stretch fabrics for the last 9 months. What looked too small, would be in a nonwoven, but would be fine in a stretch fabric. So Size X is what I made. But the last 4 wearings have confirmed that this was just a little too snug. I can’t breath the first 5 minutes – I’m told that’s normal but I don’t care for the sensation. It takes about 4 hours to actually feel unrestricted. By that I mean, by lunch time I feel OK in the jeans and I can bend and reach for anything. But that first 4 hours can be interesting as I bend for something and can’t bend far enough. So I wanted to make a size or 2 larger. In the meantime, I mean since the first pair was constructed, I’ve continued to lose pounds and 1/2″ from my rear and stomach. Oh and I hope and pray that I continue losing another 19 pounds. (I’d still be overweight according to my doctor, but hey I get to make the choice.) So I pulled out my pattern and compared to the master sheet. Looked at the differences and decided, just one size larger. Tweak #2 Just cut size Y, for now.
During the first pair, I just could not understand how that back crotch was going to fit me. Even with 4% lycra, how was it going to stretch underneath me when I normally need to alter the back crotch extension by 2″. So when it came time to actually cut the fabric, I added a 1″ extension. I don’t really notice it during the morning. But by after noon that extension is pushing forward, not quite a bubble, but definitely too much room underneath. What???? Yeah, the way this pattern is designed I don’t need an extra 1 inch in my back crotch extension. For the Size X a 1/4 to 1/2 inch might have been better. So what should I do with the size Y which is larger all over? I compared carefully and realized that it was total about 1/2 inch maybe a smidge more wider than the the Size X. So I didn’t, let me make that clear, I did NOT think I needed more for the back crotch extension. I reasoned that I now knew how to add a gusset. If this was incorrect, I could make it better. Tweak #3 Trace the size Y without altering the crotch extension.
Before I show you the nearly completed garment, I want to say a few things about it. First it is basted together and the hems are tacked at 2″. The belt loops aren’t even stitched into the final place, infact the center back loop is missing. And I made a mistake. I didn’t match at the dots. When I finished the back outseam was 3/4 inch too long. Did I redo that? No. Like a dummy I thought I must have done something wrong while removing the 2″ from the pattern leg. I loped off a 3/4″ wedge at the hem and checked the pattern latter. I do believe that 3/4″ should have been eased in. That’s important because look at this new version:
The pics on the left are unretouched and show about how I’d normally be wearing the jeans. (When I wear the Tshirt this summer, I promise to wear my slimmer). Jeans on the right side were lighted slightly so we could see the wrinkles. But ignore the wrinkles on the right front picture. I’m standing strangely which adds more wrinkles. I’m seeing a bubble in the back yoke. I think I need to take 1/4″ off. The back legs are starting to show wrinkles. Is that because they are a size larger? I don’t remember these wrinkles in the smaller size. Is the leg too long above the knee? I removed 1″ above the knee and 1″ below the knee. Should both have been removed above the knee? Did the wedge I removed, help? Should have been removed above the knee? Or is something else involved here? BTW over all the jeans look and feel good. It helps that they are black and once again 4% lycra. They are also a light weight denim which is wonderful for summer. Oh and I’m going to finish and wear these almost exactly as they are. Because, the front looks fine, the lower legs look fine and the butt, well it looks GREAT.
I did a comparison of 3 jeans. I still love the first Kwik Sews that fit everywhere except above the knee in the back – same as the Gen2 Jalie Jeans. So I added them first then the first Jalie Jeans Size X and finally what I’m calling Gen 2 the last pair almost made and size Y:
Over all the Jalie’s look better from the back. It’s not just the darker fabric or the loss of 6 pounds. Or for that matter where the camer is located. (My standing station and the camera station are both marked so that I will use the same places everytime. You should be able to see the masking tape beneath my feet.) The Jalie’s are nearly skin tight, although Y is much more comfortable having 1/2″ more ease and 1/2″ less butt. Of course, lycra is more comfortable to live in. After the first 4 hours, even the Size X, the size too small, are less movement restrictive.
I have more stretch fabric. Which means future stretch jeans. Note for future is ease in that 3/4″ on the outseam and reduce the back yoke by 1/4″