originally published 4/22/2010
I did want to share my experience with the last changes to my Jalie 2908 jeans. First of all, marking the notches and carefully lining up all pieces was absolutely, fantastically perfect! The outseams stitched together perfectly. I had added 1/2″ to the waistband, because previously there just wasn’t enough waistband. That was totally unnecessary. Once the outseams matched, the waistline was corrected and the previous waistband fit just like it should. Another sewing surprise was the ease with which the yokes were stitched and matched to the back legs. Before this pair, I always stitched the yokes to the back leg, stitched the outseams, the inseams and then the crotch. Because I wanted to try Jill Stearns recommendation for thigh wrinkles, I stitched in a different order. I completed the front pocket units, then the zipper and fly; stitched the inseams, stitched the yokes together at the center back and then stitched the yoke unit to the leg back unit. Yes, that’s an unweildy amount of fabric, but I did it and I was amazed at how easy it was to stitch and match the back yoke to the back pant’s legs. I have always struggled with matching the yoke to the upper leg. Often I’ve ripped and restriched several times and in frustration, I’ve given up, trimmed and hoped for the best. Well creating a back yoke unit and a back leg unit simplified the whole process. I needed a pin at the center back and one on each end. I also stitched with the yoke and pant leg on top to let the feed dogs ease the yoke. It worked like a dream. So even though that’s a little awkward, I so love the results, I will be following that procedure in the future.
After I stitched the yoke to the back leg, I stitched the outseams, basted the waistband to the pant and hemmed the pants. BTW, initially the yoke was stitched only 1 inch on both sides. The center was left free:
I hope you can see that yoke is free, while everything else is stitched.
I was able to pin the yoke in place and then top stitch using a long basting stitch. As I understand J Stearns’ thought, to remove the wrinkles from under the butt, a wedge is taken in the pant. The wedge is located above the butt but below the waist, just a little lower than the yoke . I reasoned that I should be able to pull up any excess, topstitch the yoke, and then trim the excess. I reasoned that I would be able to measure the excess and then transfer that to my pattern pieces. To my surprise, I got the super wedgie predicted, but none, like not one under butt wrinkle was removed. To my surprise even the yoke bubble was still mostly visible:
Yes the yoke bubble seems to be gone in the center of the yoke, but you see it on the sides both within and below the yoke. I was confused. I had carefully measured and marked the seam allowances, turned up and pressed the yoke seam allowance and then measured and marked a full 1/2″ down below the 3/8″ SA already marked on the upper part of the back of the leg. I was expecting to see a significant reduction of the wrinkles.
There’s hardly any reduction in winkles. If anything there are more wrinkles.
However I did note that these wrinkles are more horizontal than diagonal and they all originate/terminate at the knees. Also looking at my own knees they look more like the knock kneed lady in the Palmer Pletch Pants fitting book; like these:
And I was perplexed. Several months ago someone kindly suggested that knock knees might be my problem. I, in sheer desperation, tried the Palmer Pletsch remedy, with no effect. I mean it made no difference in number, direction or placement of the wrinkles in my pants. I decided to Google knock knee fit and found that Sandra Betzina also has a fitting book with specific instructions for knock knees. I was able to view the first page and 2 pages after her solution on line. It does appear that she adjusts for this issue differently than do Palmer and Pletsch. Since I’m still desperate for a solution, I did the one-click purchase thing on Amazon.com and expect my book to be arrive in about a week.
I do want you to note, that I consider this a success. My primary concern at this time had been with correcting the outseam. That worked beautifully. It may have even helped to determine what is causing my X wrinkles. And my new pants are wearable. In face, heh, heh, heh, I wore them all day today. This size Y is perfect. It is comfortable. The waist is fabulous. I’m sure it’s the stretch fabric that is the cure here. It stretched and retracted through out the day as I needed it. God, I love them. They are slim and close fitting without be revealing or constricting. No butt vortex. They are wonderful. If I never fix the X wrinkles, I’ll be happy making this pattern over and over everytime I want a pair of jeans.